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如果Met Gala将营地作为一个主题,那么营地仍然是营地吗?

This year's Met Gala is namedNotes on Fashion,in tribute to a Susan Sontag essay.But Sontag also wrote that "To talk about Camp is to betray it."

伯特兰·古杨为希亚帕雷利家族效力,2018年秋季/冬季–19日(由大都会艺术博物馆提供,照片©约翰尼·杜福尔,2019)

It's the first Monday in May,也就是说,现在是一年一度的Met盛会的时候了。The event has long been an amusing parade of famous people misunderstanding the homework assignment (sometimes outright ignoring it),今年的主题肯定会激怒某些观察家。同时有几个人注意到了他们的恐惧at how celebrities will tackle the task of dressing for夏令营:时尚注意事项,little has been said about what it means in the first place to have an 金博宝188appexhibition on camp,即使在这种情况下。

无穷无尽的宿营之意是由一句俏皮话定义的(“你不是在取笑它;你在开玩笑out它写道:“克里斯托夫•伊舍伍德The World in the Evening),哲学家们(苏珊·桑塔格经常引用的《夏令营笔记》)说:“夏令营是一种特定的美学模式……不是关于美的,but in terms of degree of artifice,风格化”),马修·廷科姆在年写道,学术界对“被称为现代性的吞噬世界的经验”作出了这样的回应。Working Like a Homosexual: Camp,Capital,电影院),by culture critics (纽约客是艾米丽·努斯鲍姆described it as "a private language"),垃圾教皇约翰·沃特斯(对荷马·辛普森说:“悲剧可笑!The ludicrously tragic!").营地是一个奇美拉。Research does not necessarily give way to clarity.作为一种情感,透镜代理的形式,政治武器,工具,一种语言,或者别的什么,这是奇怪的,and originates with outsiders.

Jeremy Scott for House of Moschino,spring/summer 2018 (courtesy Metropolitan Museum of Art,照片©约翰尼·杜福尔,2019)

Whatever form it takes,camp can at least be understood as a rebuke to normative "good taste" (whether intentional or unintentional).但是,尽管大都会及其服装学院的首席馆长安德鲁博尔顿否则可能会抗议,这样的机构都是关于好品味的,elevation,and legitimization.那是不是至少有点可疑?最坏的是,阴险的,for them to co-opt this concept?

It's true that camp's relationship to outsider identity and marginalization has changed,in the same way that queer people's relationship to marginalization and institutions have changed.但是,即使阵营及其周围的语言(尽管这个词经常被误用)已经逐渐融入主流,这场盛会和展览给人的感觉就像是棺材上金博宝188app的钉子。It's an example of how the end goal for some LGBTQ activists has not been justice over the institutions and systems that endanger their lives or eradicate their culture,但是同化到这些机构中。在这个过程中,the work and history behind this culture,often crafted by those most at risk (trans people and people of color) is flattened.

营地是否可以有意(并且可以;看沃特斯的电影,Elvira雷纳·沃纳·法斯宾德,George Cukor,JasonHolliday)如果想要把它藏在展览上,以证明它可以被认真对待,那就不那么重要了。Though Bolton asserts that“[夏令营]获得了这样的货币,它变得无形,我的部分目标是让它再次可见,“在一个像大都会这样的机构内对它进行规范化和合法化,似乎与作为一个项目或语言的营地几乎是对立的。Sontag herself wrote: "To talk about Camp is therefore to betray it."Vivian Gornick said in乡村的声音a year prior to Sontag's essay that camp was "the private property of American and English homosexuals." Like Ryan Murphy's television shows "taking camp out of the closet and into the mainstream" (per Nussbaum),the Met's goals of "visibility" reek of suspicious politics.Ironically,they sound like a form of depoliticizing for the sake of mass consumption.

Virgil Abloh for Off-White,pre-fall 2018 (courtesy Metropolitan Museum of Art,照片©约翰尼·杜福尔,2019)

This isn't the first time a presumed anti-normative philosophy or aesthetic has been consumed by the commercial fashion industry,然后被大都会消费。博尔顿还策划了2013年的展览。金博宝188app朋克:从混乱到时装.朋克既有含蓄又明确的“反”情绪,当时,一个机构“使其可见”(用博尔顿的话说)。Derek Jarman scornfully accused many punks of selling out in his 1978 film周年庆祝.Vivienne Westwood hit back withT恤和公开信…后来在大都会朋克展览上展出。金博宝188app

我是不是太浪漫了以致于抱怨大都会,在一个世界上有一个反规范的或反制度的地方,仍然指定阵营和同性恋为反规范的或反制度的。Drag Race-industrial complex,关于同性恋的优先权在哪里发生了变化?也许,但至少有必要审问一下大都会的意图和含义,即向一个主要是异性恋的公众展示所谓的“私人语言”。

Marjan Pejoski2000-2001年秋季/冬季(由大都会艺术博物馆提供,照片©约翰尼·杜福尔,2019)

抛开政治和意识形态问题,也许最令人困惑的是选择营地作为主题的决定。我的一个朋友开玩笑说,it's like putting a hat on a hat.Conversation around the Met Gala has always been less about the garments themselves than the dissonance between the intention and the execution of the spectacle."It's a kind of theater," Anna Wintour remarked in the documentary五月的第一个星期一.Look atKate Hudson in dull white Stella McCartney2017,when the theme was anti-utilitarian designer Rei Kawakubo.或者从2015年起,选择比展览本身风格更具种族主义色彩的,年China Through the Looking Glass.But though that dissonance is apparent,and a melange of people will comment on it,是那些知道自己在看什么的人。A Met Gala on camp is redundant.我们不是在取笑晚会;we're making funout of它。“出来”—就像外面一样,as in the queer rejecting those who have rejected我们-是关键的部分。

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